29 May 2008

Earthquake News

Lig's Class
The past few months have brought unimaginable natural disaster around the World, particularly in Asia. First it was the cyclone in Burma that has killed at least 100,000 people and displaced millions more, though no one can be entirely sure because of the oppressive military junta that has done everything in its power to restrict the flow of international aid and assistance.

Then, just days later, a massive earthquake struck Sichuan Province in central China. The death toll is now reaching 100,000 thousand there, with millions injured and millions more displaced. Having arrived in Shanghai just weeks after the first quake, I’ve been in the thick of things in terms of national reaction, which has been nothing short of incredible.

Every bar, restaurant, hotel, corner shop has played host to some type of fundraiser, whether it’s all tips to door cover to portions of your purchase. Chinese and foreigners alike have given graciously when it comes to giving money.

It is rather amazing how tragedy can bring a nation together. I have been reminded of how I felt in the days following September 11 back in the United States, nationalist pride more pronounced than ever before. The entire country observed three consecutive days of three-minute silences at 2:28pm, the exact moment the first tremor hit. In a moment uniquely Chinese, every car in site from Lianne’s 15th floor balcony stopped in its tracks and blared its horn. From what I hear, that happened through the nation. Just imagine the stillness of 1.4 billion people all doing the same thing at the same time. That energy could seemingly move mountains.

One odd incident has arisen in the midst of so much unity. I went with Lianne to co-teach one of her lessons last week. After granting an additional three minutes of silence per one student’s request, we spent the next hour playing English games to review for their exam. With 10 minutes left Lianne opened the floor for any questions about Western culture, as there was an Aussie, a Brit and an American all present at the time. The same student that requested the earlier moment of silence raised his hand and asked for one more minute. While Kylie (the Aussie) asked the class if they wanted to partake, he rephrased his quesetion. “No no. Not everyone. Just you. The foreigners. You should stand shoulder to shoulder in the front of the class and observe one minute of silence to show your respect for China and the victims.” This came after being asked by multiple students how much money we had donated (to which we were told, you should give more) and what our countries were doing to help (to which we were told, they should give more).

I’ll be the first to tell you that this incident was utterly catastrophic, and I know for a fact that the whole World shares in the grief and sadness of losing 100,000 human beings. Still, if there is anything to be learned from our own experiences following 9/11, it is quite simply that the wake of tragedy is no place to start waging conflict. It is a time for unity and positive action. We will give what we can give. Our nations will give what they can give. We will show our respect the way we find appropriate and at the same time, we’ll allow you to show your respect however you see fit. This is a time for reflection, not reaction.

28 May 2008

Sidebar – Why Republican Arguments Work

1. It plays on the heart, not the mind.
2. It insinuates without directly stating.
3. It uses the same language again and again.
4. It reaches people in multiple mediums.
5. It is never cynical or snarky, so as not to sound elitist.
6. It lacks details; the simpler the argument, the easier it is to understand and the harder it is to challenge.
7. It always plays victim to some broader opposition “conspiracy.” (Ie. the “liberal media.”)
8. It always has the perfect name, even if that name has no relations to the actual content of said argument.
9. It is not necessarily true.
10. It always toes the party line.

Sidebar – Why Republican Arguments Work

1. It plays on the heart, not the mind.
2. It insinuates without directly stating.
3. It uses the same language again and again.
4. It reaches people in multiple mediums.
5. It is never cynical or snarky, so as not to sound elitist.
6. It lacks details; the simpler the argument, the easier it is to understand and the harder it is to challenge.
7. It always plays victim to some broader opposition “conspiracy.” (Ie. the “liberal media.”)
8. It always has the perfect name, even if that name has no relations to the actual content of said argument.
9. It is not necessarily true.
10. It always toes the party line.

27 May 2008

Sittin’ In A Window…

Office With A View
So the biggest challenge thus far has been deciding when, exactly, to do what with my day. While I did come to write a book, I also wanted to recommit to exercising and above all else, physical therapy. Add in a hope to “listen to my body more” (I have no idea what that means but a lot of very “centered, shakra-like” people are saying it these days) and you have my current existence in China. That whole body listening thing has manifested itself in the form of not setting an alarm. Ever.

I despise the sound of that horrific contraption and, before coming to China, I only EVER once did not set an alarm. Junior year of high school. Last night of the fall play. I was exhausted, slept til’ 3pm and felt incredibly guilty about it. Hence my dilemma – I hate the sound but I hate oversleeping. Still, I’ve miraculously discovered that your body does in fact wake up when it is no longer tired. That is currently happening at 8am if I hit the hay around midnight. Every night I coach myself into believing that it’s ok. “Don’t worry, you’ll wake up. You need the sleep. You’ll have time to get everything else done tomorrow. I promise.” Needless to say, I can’t help but feel slightly insane for promising myself it’ll be ok if I don’t set an alarm. It’s definitely a goal to release that demon (another thing those centered shakra-like people say) before I get back to America.

I digress. Anyway, I’m up at 8, check email (only doing that twice a day, which is another area of high stress. “What if someone sends an urgent email, blah blah blah.” One more said demon), eat a banana, go for a run, shower, do physical therapy while watching myself on TV (apparently I am the spitting image of Matthew Fox on Lost, at least according to the Chinese girls who come up to me on the street with pictures of him on their phone saying, “Lost. Lost. Are you lost?” Where to even begin on that one), then settle into my perch and write.

I have literally put my desk in the windowsill, so I can stare out into the depths of the city in between jotting down notes on electronic paper (that’s slang for Word). It’s going well, as I do believe the right environment makes a huge difference. Let’s just hope my brain starts connecting all the dots soon. Otherwise, it’s going to one spastic journey.

--

Kyle Taylor

26 May 2008

No Torch For You

China Beijing Olympic Torch
As all 6+ billion people on this planet are now aware, China is hosting the Olympics this year and the torch is traveling around the World to what one might call “mixed reviews.” Well, it’s back in China and now making the rounds from South to North, East to West. It’s been to the top of Mount Everest, the streets of Hong Kong, the back roads outside Kunming and now, through the Central Eastern cities of Hangzhou and Shanghai.

Little did we laowei (foreigners) know that this would mean no booking hotel rooms and for some, no leaving our apartments for the duration of the torches stay in the streets. A friend of Lianne’s had gone to Hangzhou for a weekend getaway only to walk into a Youth Hostel and be told that “no foreigners can stay in the city.” While the reason was not explicitly stated, with the torch arriving the next day one might posit that they have been the reason.

China Torch Route
Later that evening we were at a friend’s house to learn that several folks in the group were told by the guards at their apartment compounds that they would “not be allowed to leave the building between 7am and 2pm on Saturday” for, get this, “their safety.” Shockingly (read sarcasm), that was the same period of time the torch would be traveling through the streets of the city.

Now, don’t get me wrong, the torch protests have had people up in arms around the World (it even led to boycotts of some French stores here in China, though that lasted all of 3 days), but what foreigner would be dimwitted enough to protest the host nation actually IN the host nation, especially when said host nation could very well determine your own personal fate? Can anybody say deportation? At the same time, would you really want to be trampled by the 1.4 billion, increasingly nationalistic (thanks in large part to those same protests abroad) Chinese who are overwhelmingly excited to host their first Olympic games? I’m going to go with NO.

--

Kyle Taylor

22 May 2008

The Z H G Yuan, Darling

My Favorite Building
As usual, Lianne and I are attached at the hip due in large part to our love for Zhongshan Gongyuan (Zhongshan Park) or as we now refer to it, "The Z-H-G Yuan, Darling." We're trying to hip it up in an effort to combat other foreigner's attacking our neighborhood as a "suburb" because they can ride their bikes everywhere. This is the same place I lived last time I was here and, because it's so awesome, Lianne and Oli continue to enjoy the perfect blend of Old China and New China, just minutes from a subway stop that will take you everywhere else in this growing city. Just a few shots of our perfect little land. The above is my favorite building in the World - Cloud 9 Tower. It's about 60 stories tall. SO COOL.

Big Brands
That's the outside of the Cloud 9 mall, home of Carrefour (supermarket) an H&M and now, a Coldstone. That's the "New China."

Cloud 9
That's the 6-story tall hanging piece of art located inside Cloud 9. Divine.

Francais?
This is a cart parked along the pathway to Lianne and Oli's place from the subway. That's "Ville" tagged in the background, French for "city." Why not, right?

China Foot - A Day In Flip-Flops
Finally, that's my feet after a full day of walking around in flip-flops here in Shanghai. We call that "China Foot." Woo!

--

Kyle Taylor

21 May 2008

Skyscrapers Skyscrapers Everywhere!

If We Could All Have It...
I was washing dishes in Lianne’s 15th floor kitchen this morning and looked up from the sink to see nothing but a sea of “apartment.” The only thing in my line of site was left to right, top to bottom apartment. I cranked my next around and off in the distance, beyond this next apartment skyscraper, the only site off in the distance was more “apartment.” In fact, it is apartments and not businesses that really dot the Shanghai skyline. With 27 million people or so, that just seems to be the most logical way of filling the need for places to live.

Hung Out To Dry
And those who live in these buildings lives fairly well. All of them are two or three bedrooms. Hot water and air conditioning are commonplace. Balconies are a necessity, as people don’t use dryers here. Of course there are millions who live with far less, but the image I’m trying to display here is that of China’s rising middle class – the Chinese version of America’s single-family home suburbia. The only difference is, this middle class model is far more affordable, as infrastructure costs and energy cost and land costs are lower.

18 - Story
This model, in many ways, could be an image of how the planet could sustain a certain lifestyle for every person on it. That made me wonder, if we knew that every human being on earth could have food, water, reasonable health care and a decent place to live if it meant that we would have to downsize some, would we do it? To KNOW that we could end poverty, hunger and infant mortality if we skim a bit off the top of our lives. I don’t know what the answer would be, but I am certainly comfortable in this apartment with my 15th floor views, satellite TV, hot water, hardwood floors and recessed lighting. That is, it aint so bad. Just some food for thought.

Waiting.  Idling.
On a lighter note, while gas is extremely subsidized here and most everyone who needs it can afford it, that doesn’t mean there are enough gas stations to go around. Check out this line of scooters waiting for their turn to pump some black gold. Must have been AT LEAST 100 of them in line. Could you ever imagine being late to work then telling your boss, “I’m really sorry. There were 100 people ahead of me in line at the gas pump.” I don’t think so…

--

Kyle Taylor

18 May 2008

Like I Never Left

Dynamic Duo
4 days in and as Lianne pointed out to me last night, it’s as if I never left. I thought about quite a while because a lot has happened since my last stint in Shanghai. For one, I literally traveled around the World. That on top of Dengue Fever (note the capitalization to emphasize the gravity of said Fever), shoulder surgery and 8 solid months back in Washington, DC. Still, for whatever reason, I feel as though I’ve slid more comfortably into a way of life here than I ever had in DC which begs the question, what is it about Shanghai that I find so appealing?

Of course there are the negatives – human rights wrongs, extreme poverty and downright absurd pollution (I think I’ve already contracted the black lung, pop). Maybe it is in part that Shanghai is somewhat set apart from the rest of the country because of it’s governing autonomy and economic prowess, so those negatives are missed at some level (at the same time there have been countless events held to raise funds for Earthquake victims).

SHANGERS!
The city is, in large part, extremely different than it was 14 months ago. There are now EIGHT subway lines that move nearly 12 million people a day. A DVD now goes for $1. 40-story buildings have shot up in places where there was no more than a pile of bricks when I left. It seems the only constant in Shanghai is change. I, of course, love change. It helps to fend off boredom.

With so much of the setting altering, there remains a certain consistency in the people. Getting on the subway is still an all-out war (“no learning”). Umbrella’s are an all-season item, as Chinese women work tirelessly to lighten their skin (meanwhile, I’m attempting to roast myself in an effort to appear “healthy”). The park is flooded with people practicing tai chi (the only time you’ll see a Chinese person move slow). The only difference is, they’re doing these things wearing different clothes with cell phones strung from their necks and “Louis Buitton” bags hanging over their forearms.

I Love This Girl
More than anything else, the energy remains the same. The city is cranking ALL THE TIME. I was walking through the supermarket this morning and felt nothing but excitement from everyone and everything. Ogling over the newest western imports. Trying out treadmills and hand weights (a phenomenon still not fully embraced in China. They hop on in heels and start “treading” along with a perplexed look on their face as if to say “why do white people walk and walk to get nowhere?”). I wasn’t around in 1950s America, but I’m guessing it was similar: An unparalleled increase in wealth over a short period of time, leading to massive growth in quality of life and purchasing power. That feeling just makes everyday life so exciting and quite frankly, entertaining.

In short, I’m missing people (certain ones especially) but happiness abounds. The global perspective has given me new insight into all that is China, which means more thoughts to fill my mind. Exciting? I think yes.

--

Kyle Taylor

If It Looks Like China…

Flight To China May 2008 - 07

I leave DC incredibly excited for this next big adventure – a return to where it all began: Shanghai. But first it’s three days in Boston and five in California. Part work, part pleasure. It’s easy to get used to the comforts of your childhood home. The cupboards are full of the same delicious snacks. The laundry is magically “done.” The sun shines into the kitchen the same way every morning. The showerhead feels the same way as it did at 5am in high school. Same neighbors. Same siblings. Same arguments. Same hilarious moments. It feels like a complete escape from my hectic post-college life, only this break is a return to my childhood. And so I must soldier on. Back to China and all of it’s “character,” both good and bad.

Of course I have “honeymoonized” China in my mind, remembering only the delicious food, great people and happiest moments. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Still, I’m returning and all those goods will be matched with not-so-goods.

My parents and I arrive way early to the airport. I have a sneaking suspicion we’ll need extra time. We wait a solid hour in line to check my bags. I approach the counter and the woman asks me for my ticket. “It’s an e-ticket,” I reply. “Did you ever change the flight date,” she asks. Immediately I switch into “international traveler who has braved the storms of China” mode. “No, it was an e-ticket. I bought it on Orbitz. I have the confirmation number. I got confirmation. I have a ticket…” I ramble on as she punches away on her airport computer, a phenomenon in technological terms because it always takes about 300 different keystrokes to accomplish a task.

I’m starting to sweat. Surely something can’t go wrong BEFORE I leave. “Oh, ok. No problem Mr. Taylor. It’s right here.” She giggles. It hits me. I’m actually going back to China.

The security line takes another 30 minutes. I arrive at my gate, welcomed by the sound of an emergency exit door alarm that is filling the waiting area with a high-pitched squawk, complemented by constant announcements being made in Mandarin (I definitely heard something about windows and chicken), gate attendants frantically running here and there and a large consolidation of people forming around the plane entrance. They have yet to call for boarding. It hits me. I’m actually going back to China.

I turn on “China mode” and push my way to the front, ready to board as soon as possible. They call rows 60 and higher. I’m in row 52 and proceed to board, along with EVERYONE ELSE on my flight. I have my passport checked for the 12th time and they scan my ticket. Success! I’m through to the bus that will take me to my plane. True to Chinese form, there are a million people on the bus and we’re packed in like sardines. It hits me. I’m actually going back to China.

The bus takes off, driven by none other than a portly Chinese man who is smoking a cigarette. Naturally. We are driving for what seems like hours to the other side of the enormous tarmac, dodging luggage carts, people holding batons and enormous airplanes before reaching our plane, which is attached to a small building that could easily be mistaken for an abandoned auto repair shop. The bus doors open and everyone takes off running, determined to board the plane first. I follow suit, taking out a few rolling suitcases and small children on my journey to winning what appears to be a “first one on the plane” marathon. I dart up the ramp and onto the plane, taking that last step like I’ve just won the 100-yard dash in Beijing. I look around at the folks trailing me. They look defeated but determined. It hits me. I’m already back in China…

--

Kyle Taylor

07 May 2008

I'm Closing Up Loose Ends!

Just hectically getting ready to depart. Updates and thoughts soon!

Food for thought: JOINT TICKET.

There is no other way...

--

Kyle Taylor

02 May 2008

DC Farewell Part 2 – The Not So Good

As with any place you call home, there is bound to be a few things here and there that just aren’t your favorite (except for in California which is, as you might have guessed, perfect). At the very least, they make you laugh hysterically on a regular basis. I, like most, have a cynical streak, so here goes. The less-wonderful side of Washington, DC:

10. Public Transportation. While it is affordable, it’s not timely. At all. Unless you live on the Red Line, which heads into the wealthy part of town, you can expect to wait upwards of 13 minutes for a metro train. Above ground things are just as bad. Why publish a bus “schedule” if it has no correlation to the actual arrival and departure times of said bus? I’m just saying…


9. No Beach. I realize there is little the city can do about this, but I miss the smell of the Ocean and the feeling of sand between my toes, not to mention crashing ways and apparently, huge sharks.


8. Always Going Out To The Same Three Places. “Want to go to Adams Mo,” he asked. “Nah, how about Dupont,” she replied. “We were just there. How about U Street,” he said, excitedly. “We were just there too,” she muttered. “We were just everywhere. There are only three places to go out in DC.” Seriously, it’s either Adams Morgan, Dupont or U Street and I don’t remember the last time I went to Dupont…


7. All Politics All The Time. I know this was a favorite too but let me tell you, it can get exhausting. I was talking to a friend at work yesterday and she said she kind-of feels like a “one-trick pony. I mean, the only thing I can talk about is social entrepreneurship. If it’s not about social entrepreneurship then I get lost and do everything I can to get the conversation back to social entrepreneurship.” I feel the same way, only I’d add politics as my other “trick.” Somehow every conversation I find myself in starts about youth-led social change and finishes about Hillary vs. Obama. I think I’m losing friends…

6. Tourist Season. It starts in March and ends in September, with May and August being peak season. They come in packs of 4 to 400 and insist on riding the metro for the “experience.” Note, while riding escalators stand to the right and walk to the left. If this simple rule is followed we will be able to coexist in the future. If not, you and your toddler, who is wearing an “FBI” shirt and clearly runs the show, are free game.

5. Cabs. Yesterday was May 1st, which means meters are in full effect! Just kidding. No fines until June, so why bother? Since the beginning of time DC Cabs have run on a “easy-to-follow” zone system that charges different rates depending on how many zones you pass. Sounds simple, right? That is, until the exact same ride costs something different every time you take it. DC Government decided to spend a year “researching meters” (as if metered cabs weren’t used in every other major city on the planet) and decided to implement them to the praise of citizens and contempt of cab drivers. Now the whole city is up in arms and cabbies claim there is no longer money is driving a taxi. So basically what you’re saying is that until now it was profitable, solely because you ramped up fares? I’m sorry, but it is simply not fair to charge someone $13 to go 5 minutes. End.

4. Lead Water. We were just notified that the lead levels in DC water are officially at a healthy level. Does that mean that for the past 6 years they weren’t? Oh la la.

3. Freeways That Go In Circles. I know I go on about how great California is, but why on earth would you design a freeway that goes in a circle around a city? Once it reaches full capacity then there is literally nowhere to move and traffic comes to a screeching halt, thanks especially to the impeccable driving ability of most DC-area residents (read sarcasm).

2. Drivers. There are no words. From driving 20 miles below the speed limit to apparently owning cars that don’t have blinkers, DC-area drivers are the worst I have ever been surrounded by, and that includes Delhi, India. People, it’s called DRIVING and it is an active – not passive – task. Check your mirrors, stay on your side of the road and please, for the sake of sparing the lives of others, don’t turn right from the middle lane.


1. Humidity. It’s 85 degrees but it feels like 110. For most of July and August it is as if you’re living in a sauna. I shower three times a day, which is so not eco-friendly. Oh how I long for dry heat…

Still, all in all, I love me some DC and will absolutely miss the city!

--

Kyle Taylor