Cure Cancer's Team Everest Goes All The Way!

At 3:37pm on the 16th of February The Inspired Adventures Cure Cancer Team Everest took their first steps on Everest Base Camp, reaching 5,350 meters.  We actually descended into Base Camp, having passed 5,400 meters on our approach.  In total, we will spend nearly 50 hours above 5,000 meters - a very serious undertaking.  Eight days in with four to go, it is clear that this is truly the physical challenge of a lifetime.

 

We headed off this morning from Lobuche at just under 5000 meters, reaching Gorakshep after 3.5 gruesome hours through snow and wind.  From Gorakshep it was another three hours to Base Camp.  We walked across a completely frozen lake before the path ascended, descended, ascended, descended, and ascended again, following a very narrow ridge with sheer drops on both sides. By this point the wind had picked up, blowing constantly at 60kph with 100kph gusts.  Little Boo (Emma) nearly  blew away more than once (no joke!). The wind was blowing up snow flurries, mini tornadoes, and anything else that wasn't attached to the ground.

By the time we descended down the ridge and over a glacier to the official start of Base Camp the temperature was hovering around -25 degrees with wind chill.  The gusts were now fairly solid at 100kph.  We. Were.  FREEZING.  Our amazing Sherpas poured us celebratory mugs of cocoa that were cold before they hit our lips.  We snapped some quick photos, downed our cocoa, threw on our packs, and headed right back the way we came.  Just like that we had reached our incredible goal and before we could blink we were heading back down the mountain. This whirlwind feeling only added to the overall madness of our already overwhelming physical, mental, and emotional experience.

 

The walk back to our tea house was perhaps the most difficult two and a half hours some of us had ever experienced.  The wind was still blowing, the snow was still falling, and now the sun was quickly setting.  Once more it as up, across a ridge, down, up, down, across a frozen river, around a ridge and back to the toasty lodge that we will call home tonight. It sits at a whopping 5,135 meters; not the ideal altitude for sleeping but alas, it's one more tier to this already awesome challenge.

A final note on our day.  We began with a vey touching letter from the CEO of Cure Cancer followed by sharing the day's theme: an invitation to declare who it is each of us was trekking for.  This brought a few tears as we recollected on family members passed and friends still fighting. K2 was doing it for Granny Lu, J-Rod for his mate Gareth, and Chook for his Mum, who passed away in 2009.  I was doing it for Aunty Barbara and Mama Rohr, for whom I was "Rohring" to Base Camp.  This added element of meaning is what separates an Inspired Adventure from just a "holiday." It is travel with a purpose at every level and I am so proud to be part of a team that has raised tens of thousands of dollars for cancer research AND achieved a physical feat unlike any other.  From here it's down down down we go!

 

GO TEAM!

 

Dung Fires, Blizzards, & Fried Mars Bars, Oh My!

After 7 days of consistent 6-8 hour trekking days, we had our first "rest" day yesterday. What does a rest day entail? To start, a 3-hour walk straight up the side of a mountain to acclimatize from 4400 meters to 4900 meters. That's our "rest." Thankfully, the afternoon was completely free and this group couldn't remember the last time we had this big a chunk of time to read. The books were finished, passed, and read again around a roaring dung fire. Actually, the poop fire wasn't so roaring and required near constant attention as we foreigners were attempting to micromanage the dung process with Sherpas who have literally been doing this for hundreds of years. Alas, our afternoon could be adequately described as lukewarm, though we weren't complaining with actual FREE time on offer.

 

We awoke today and greeted a temperature of -2 degrees in our rooms. Once again, it was the early-morning shuffle as we packed our bags, geared up, and ate yet another serving of yellow carbohydrates. A word on food. We are over the high-altitude base-camp diet. As I write, Jazz is attempting to stuff down NINE boiled potatoes. Yes, NINE. This is her entire dinner. Our whole menu of eating options consists entirely of cooking the same flour into a seemingly infinite numb of different forms. Pancakes, Tibetan bread, Nepali bread, etc. While we still have five more days of trekking, after reaching base camp tomorrow our menu will open up slightly. My goodness that was a boring paragraph but hey, that's literally the biggest issue on our minds. That and trekking uphill for hours on end.

 

Once bundled up, we hit the road just as snow flurries began to fall from the ominous clouds above. Our morning walk was a little up, a little down, and a whole lot of undulating. This is the developing world's catch-all term for "whatever the heck lies ahead." Using it means they are never inaccurate in describing our walk. We arrived at lunch just as the snow began to stick, diving inside for a delicious meal of yellow food accompanied by yellow tea (lemon and ginger).

 

By the time we left lunch there were 5 centimeters of snow on the ground and the intensity was increasing. We dove in head first, knowing full well that this was all part of the challenge! The first hour was directly uphill as we scaled the side of a mountain, rising to 4953 meters before trailing straight ahead. At this stage, the snowfall was in full swing and we were trudging through 15 centimeters. Our trail made its way into the root of a valley. I swiped the snow aside to discover we were actually trekking on the fringes of a frozen river! What a surreal feeling it was to be nearly 5000 meters high with peaks towering even higher above in every direction, trudging through snow on top of a river that had turned to solid ice!

 

We arrived tired but energized. From here it is only six hours of trekking until we reach Everest Base Camp! It's early to bed tonight and early to rises tomorrow but not after devouring what the Sherpas call a "Mars Roll." What, exactly, is a Mars Roll? Well, it's a king size Mars bar wrapped in pastry and deep fried until it forms a delicious caramel chocolate croissant. Good for you? No. Absolutely delicious? Yes!

 

The team are feeling strong, determined, and absolutely driven. Some are on their way in memory of or in support of someone who has faced cancer. Others are here to prove naysayers wrong. Regardless, we're going to get to Base Camp as a solid team: The Inspired Adventures Cure Cancer Team Everest. Ain't no stoppin' us now!

 

GO TEAM!

 

Doing It For The Team!

Waking up at 3800 meters in -10 degrees is cold.  Let me correct myself.  It is COLD.  We have quickly learned the ins and out of bag packing, dressing, and washing to minimize exposure to the frigid conditions.  Once we are up and moving, however, no one can stop us!  We are a lean, mean, cancer-curing machine. 

 

It has been just nine days since we all joined forces in Bangkok and continued on to Kathmandu.  Understandably, it feels like a great deal more time has passed in (almost) all good ways (except J -Rod and K2, who we are somehow managing to deal with).  Five of us have now survived gastro, we have toured temples, eaten lunch outside in a thunderstorm, helicoptered into the Himalayas after spending three days together at the airport ("Yeti airlines. Yeti airlines. Flight 613. 615. 617."), trekked through complete darkness in the rain, eaten an unbelievable amount of yellow food, and huddled around many a dung-powered fire keeping warm four kilometers above sea level. I short, it has already been an Inspired Adventure and we still have more of the trip left than we have completed. Three days left until we reach Base Camp and then it is another five days back to Lukla, where we fly or chopper back to Kathmandu.  This is the ULTIMATE Inspired Adventure.

 

Needless to say, today our theme was "doing it for the team" because there is no way we would have gotten this far without each other (okay, maybe without K2 - just kidding!).  For our team, today was particularly significant.  We passed the tree line and surged to 4400 meters, arriving in Dingboche just as the snow started to fall.  In the morning we rose to brilliant sunshine and the bluest sky you can imagine.   As morning turned to midday and midday became late afternoon, the clouds began to roll in.   Following our path, they crept slowly towards us in a silent assault until we were completely enveloped.  Their arrival signaled the return of our big jackets and a slight uptick in our pace to reach the lodge before they opened up and showered us with snow.  It was absolutely breathtaking.

 

On a lighter note, it has been amazing to see how much little things can bring this team so much joy.  Out here, where survival has become our primary objective and the modern world has all but faded away (save for this iPad that allows us to share our epic adventure), the taste of peanut butter, the smell of a yack dung fire, and the site of a porcelain squatter toilet ignite a level of happiness previously unknown. Today at our tea break, we came upon such a squatter.  Wu (Wendy) came running (correction: we were at 4000 meters so she was walking briskly) into the lodge screaming "the toilet is so clean! You have to see it!"  We then took turns inspecting and utilizing this brilliant piece of porcelain goodness. Hours later I could still hear people saying to each other " how about that toilet back there, huh? I really wish I had to go."

 

And now, here we are in Dingboche fighting the cold AS A TEAM united by a new-found appreciation for porcelain and doing it all for Cure Cancer.

 

GO TEAM!

 

Doing It For Cure Cancer!

Note: I tried 7 times to get a photo in, but the connection at 4000 meters deep in the Himalayas just can't handle it (shocking, I know)

Today we pulled our boots back on, zipped up our coats, packed up our bags, and continued onward toward Everest Base Camp. Without question, the moment of the day we all look forward to the least are those first ten minutes in the morning after the alarm goes off.  It is 6am and we are nestled deep in our sleeping bags.  "Beep beep beep beep beep" and I am knocking on the wall to wake up my neighbors. That knock is passed down from room to room until all 10 weary travelers are wide awake, though the walls are so thin, my knock usually carries all the way down. There is no heat in the rooms, which means the temperature at this hours hovers around -5 degrees. By the time we reach Base Camp, it will be roughly -30 degrees at 6am.

 

We must then get out of our sleeping bags and embrace the arctic temperatures, change into our clothes (which are equally freezing), pack our bags, attempt to brush our teeth (assuming the taps haven't frozen), and saunter into the lodge where we will once again eat a meal that can adequately be described as "yellow." EVERYTHING we eat is yellow.

 

While every day is tough and we are digging deep to get the kilometers behind us, reminding ourselves that we are doing this for something greater than ourselves keeps us going.  Today's theme was "I'm Doing It For Cure Cancer" and do we did!  9 kilometers mostly uphill, ascending from 3400 meters to just over 3800 meters in roughly 7 hours, arriving at Tengboche Monastery to another frigid lodge.  It's all part of the adventure!  Knowing that we are here on this Inspired Adventure to help find a key to a cure gives us that extra burst of energy when it is needed most.

 

If there is anything to say about it today, it is that the team found its rhythm.  KGB (Vlad) caught his breath.  Jazz and Wu paced together. StavMan got his uphill groove back. Yes, it seems that all the pieces are falling into place right on time.  We are now just 4 days away from Base Camp and let me tell you, there is no stopping us now!

 

GO TEAM!

Cure Cancer's Team Everest Meets A Living Legend

Today we had a lie-in! Up at 7:30am and off by 9am on what would become a 7.5 hour acclimatization walk amidst some of the most stunning scenery any of us had ever seen.  The Himalayas maintain this otherworldly quality that is simply impossible to capture in a photograph and equally difficult to express in words.  It is like "walking in the heavens," as our guide Tashi says.  With each turn there is a new panoramic view, a new angle to take in, and a new peak to measure up.

 

Last night the whole team was feeling fairly broken by the altitude, the distance covered, and the thought of what lied ahead. After a good night's sleep, however, we were pumped and ready to go.  Especially StavMan, who was literally falling asleep at dinner last night.  Boy did he bounce back! Everyone brought their A-game.  K2 (the other Kyle) and J-Rod (Jarrod) were their usual ridiculous selves posing in Kung-fu position at the edge of mountains.  K-Dax (Kaine) and Chook (Paul) remained level-headed, good humored, and an all-around joy to trek with.  Jazz showed everyone up when we hit heavy snow on a downhill, literally skiing down the Himalayas in her trekking boots.

While the day was one giant highlight, a few moments did stand out.  The first was when Chook ran into an old Navy buddy he hadn't seen in TEN YEARS. His wife will, apparently, not be surprised as he runs into someone he knows on every corner of the globe.  The second was when we met Apa Sherpa, the world record hold for number of times summiting Mount Everest.  How many times has he summated the world's highest peak, you ask? Oh, just 21! Not only did we have the honor of meeting him, we actually got our picture taken with him while Everest itself loomed in the background.  We sports our bright orange Cure Cancer trekking buffs and he flew his Everest flag high.  It was one of those moments you never forget.

 

Tomorrow it's back on the trail, with 8 hours of mostly uphill steps ahead of us.  What does this team have to say about that? BRING IT ON!

 

One final note: Wendy officially has a new nickname.  It's "Wu!!!!" It was inspired by the profession of our IA team member Nadia's partner. Just too perfect.

 

GO TEAM!

 

Cure Cancer's Team Everest Goes Big

Note: More trouble with photos due to Internet connection. Sorry!

My goodness, what a day it was.  We awoke at 6:30am in sub-zero temperatures, sliding into ice-cold clothes amid shivers, frigid fingers, and totally numb toes.  Then comes putting in contacts, sorting out blistered feet, applying sunscreen, and everything else that goes into prepping for a long day of altitude trekking.

 

Following breakfast and our morning music pump-up jams, we hit the trail. One thing has become incredibly clear at this early stage: the temperature changes almost constantly, which means taking layers off and putting layers on almost constantly.  Round a bend and slide into the shade - fleece, coat, hat, and gloves on.  Turn the next corner into direct sunlight - fleece, coat, hat, and gloves off.  I call it Himalayan hopscotch for no reason other than that it is alliteration and sounds fun.

 

Today brought unparalleled beauty, which only promises to get more spectacular as the days go on.  We descended deep into the valley and followed the river for several hours before heading upward 600 meters (2000 feet) in a steep ascent, all the while criss-crossing otherworldly suspension bridges covered in prayer flags flapping purposefully in the wind.  This place already has that mysterious, wonderful, heavenly quality that is only magnified by the fact that we will be reaching Everest Base Camp in 7 short days.

 

Without question, today's highlight was catching out first glimpse of Everest itself soaring 8,800 meters (over 29,000 feet) over sea level.  Today's trek also gave us the opportunity to get acquainted with everyone's trekking personalities.  Vlad (KGB) keeps the group moving. "Okay, so we go now?" Jazz captures every moment with her camera.  Emma (Boo) has a certain whimsical quality that follows her everywhere.  Wendy (Hots) is a fighter and powers through.  Together, we are an awesome team that will absolutely get to Base Camp.

 

We arrived to Namche Bazaar just after 5pm, a full 8.5 hours after we set off.  It has been a day to say the least, and the whole group are exhausted.  It was a quick dinner, a quick stretch, and off to bed for everyone.  Tomorrow we have a solid 5-hour acclimatization walk!  Before I sign off, a quick shout out to StavMan is in order. Acclimatizing to altitude has been particular difficult for him but he put his head down and pushed through today, far exceeding even his own expectations.  He is already a legend and it is only day 2. 

 

GO TEAM!

 

Can't Touch This!

Note: Havi trouble uploading photos, so doing my best!

After waking up at 4:15am for the third morning in a row and once again waiting countless hours in the Domestic Airport Terminal we shucked the airplanes and opted for a less weather-dependent form of transport: HELICOPTERS!

 

Broken into a group of 8 and a group of 4, we hopped aboard the Lukla Express and careened toward Lukla, soaring over farms, deep ravines, and schools full of young kids waving as we zoomed over head. We landed amidst mild fanfare as weary travelers, who had been stuck in Lukla for day, wrestled for a seat on the chopper heading back to Kathmandu.

 

From there we met our crew, scarfed down a quick lunch, and started on our way to Base Camp 12 hours after we had first woken up. Our first stop was at a massive prayer wheel to bless our climb and wish good luck on our journey.

 

Three hours later, we reached our first stop of Phakding by torchlight in the darkness of a cloudy moonless night. We had crossed our first massive suspension bridge and were treated to a brilliant view of our first mega-peak, called Khumbila. From here we will check in to our lodge, roll out our sleeping bags, enjoy a cup of tea by the communal fire, nosh on some delicious food, and head straight to bed. We have 8 hours of uphill trekking tomorrow!