Hipster Melbourne

There is apparently a massive cross-country rivalry that exists between Sydney and Melbourne. Melbourne says Sydney has no class. Melbourne says Sydney is rubbish at sports. Melbourne says Sydney has bad restaurants. The list goes on. What is Sydney’s reply? WHATEVER. Though that response seems to sum up the laid back beach attitude that is at the heart of Sydney culture. It’s a sort of “we’ve got the Opera House, the harbour, and Bondi. Whatever.”



Indeed, Sydney is San Fran and Melbourne is Brooklyn (with a splash of Manhattan here and there). The first noticeable difference was the lack of an ocean, well-replaced by a charming little river. The first noticeable similarity is the lack of a definitive city center. Yes, there’s the traditional Central Business District (CBD) but there’s also Federation Square and Brunswick Street and Parliament House and another half-a-dozen landmarks that could potentially be classified as the town center.



We spent our days doing what I enjoy best in a city - just wandering around. There was a stop at the main street market and a peek into a few government buildings, but no committed focus on “sites.” The city was our site; every tiny lane, every corner restaurant, and every quirky vintage shop that lined the uber-trendy, uber-park slope Brunswick Street area (complete with its own co-op grocery store!).



We whiled away over coffee and dumplings while reading every single story in the weekend paper. We rode a bumpy replacement bus to a distant beach for panoramic views of the city. We cruised the downtown on Melbourne’s delightfully efficient and wildly eco-friendly trams. Then at night, we sampled the city’s nightlife. It was the perfect leisurely holiday in a wildly livable city. One more thing it shares with Sydney: Top-notch quality of life. No wonder Australians are so darn happy. Now if we had only flown a real airline to get there...






--

Kyle Taylor

Kiev - Hidden Gem

The City

Ukraine’s vibrant capital city, in 2004 Kiev played host to perhaps the most significant event in an emerging democracy during the Orange Revolution. People camped in Independence Square demanding a fair and free election and in the end, they won. Politics is a near constant topic of conversation for Ukrainians as they take their role as vote very seriously. Combined with perhaps one of the most interesting histories in Europe, Kiev offers a fascinating glimpse at both rise and fall of a once major Empire. Fortunately, the grand avenues and exquisite buildings have survived the generations, making it one of the most beautiful cities in the world.



The Lay of the Land

Kiev is situated near the meeting point of Ukraine’s two main rivers. A majority of the city is west of the water, with Independence Square marking its epicenter. The main churches, shopping and “scene” are north and west of the square, while the monastery lines the hills along the river.





The Must-Sees and Must-Dos

Take in the unmatched architectural wonder of this world capital. Don’t miss House with Hymers (Bankova 10) with it’s intricately detailed carvings making it one of the most beautiful buildings in the world. Independence Square (Maidan Nezalezhnosti in Ukrainian), The National Opera House and Mariinskyi Palace are also must-sees.

“Chuch-hop” from St. Sophia’s Cathedral to St. Alexander’s Church and on up the hill to St. Andrew’s Church. They’re all spectacular.

Stroll the cobblestoned streets of Andrew’s Descent. A daily market of clothes, food, bric-a-brac and tourist “necessities” line the cobblestoned lanes from St. Andrews Church at the highest point and down the street to the north.

Instead of exploring Kiev’s cave monastery, opt for a day-trip to Chernihiv (mini-buses leave whenever they’re full from the Lisova metro station at the end of the red line, $4). A larger monastery and more extensive caves make for a very unique life experience. Chernihiv offers half a dozen other churches as well as a stunning World War II memorial and ancient Cossack “hill cemetery.” The bigger the hill, the more important the man.

Plan an organized trip to Chernobyl. Yes it’s the site of the world’s greatest nuclear disaster but the Atomic Energy Association says it’s now clear to visit and the experience is out of this world. Get within 700 feet of reactor number four then wander the once vibrant streets of Pripyat town. Once home to more than 60,000 people, the city was deserted nearly overnight following the incident, leaving everything still intact. From lessons half-written on the chalkboards to an amusement park that never opened, it’s a chilling reminder of what human being can both create and destroy.

Eat Chicken Kiev, Borsch soup and fried potatoes. It’s not necessarily the most delicious meal, but it will get you in the Ukrainian “mood.”





The Tips and Tricks

Half of Ukraine speaks Russian and half of Ukraine speaks Ukrainian. You’ll probably speak neither. Both, however, use the cyrillic alphabet so take a few hours to learn to read it before you arrive. It will make your visit quite a bit easier to be able to pronounce where you’d like to go.

Petty crime and obsessive alcoholism remain problems in the city center. Watch your bags and avoid projectile beer bottles.

Upon arrival, fill out both the arrival side and departure side of the immigration form. Otherwise, you’ll be sent to the back of the line just like in fifth grade. Not fun.

The Trans-Siberian Railway. Or: Really Far Away

The Big Picture

We are awakened by the older cabin matron who jolts our door open, points to her watch, shouts “passport control” and slams the door shut again. It’s seven thirty in the morning. They inspect our passports with excessive seriousness, then instruct us to “leave cabin.” The four of us get up, unsure of where we’re going. A small gymnastic woman enters our cabin and proceeds to do an uneven bars routine while looking in every nook and cranny for who knows what. Drugs? Money? People? The cabin matron then proceeds to vacuum the entire train with a dust buster. She motions to our feet and points up. We lift and she sweeps under our feet. She then motions to our feet and points down, as if we would have stayed in that formation permanently otherwise. We are shaken by an abrupt “push” forward as an engine is attached. We start moving ever so slowly forward. A fellow traveler appears to inform us of the party happening later in the evening. “Apparently there is actually a Russian on the train and he has invited all of us to a vodka party later.” Welcome to the Trans-Siberian Railway.



The Details

The Trans-Siberian railway is the world’s longest train journey. Covering more than 5,000 miles across Siberia, the route - despite its fame - remains distant to most travelers; it just might be the namesake of the phrase “off the beaten path.” While the Russian route runs from Vladivostok to Moscow, two other lines begin in Beijing: The Trans-Manchurian runs through northern China and into Russia while the Trans-Mongolian takes travelers through the breathtaking scenery of Mongolia. This writer recommends the Trans-Mongolian starting in Beijing and traveling northwest to Moscow.



The Journey

Because this adventure offers so many options, below is a recommended route and suggested length of time in different locations as well as hostel, restaurant and connection recommendations where necessary. This writer recommends booking all train tickets in advance. Probably the most well-known and widely trusted agent is Real Russia (www.realrussia.co.uk). Tickets can also be purchased en-route through hostels and travel agents. This is not advised during high season (May to August), as trains fill. Try departing early August to avoid huge crowds but still enjoy warmer weather.

Beijing (See the Beijing city guide for details on hotels, restaurants and sites) This is where it all begins! Trains leave Tuesday and Sunday for Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, which is the next stop on this journey. Ideally, plan to spend 7 days in Beijing.
Ulaanbaatar (See the Mongolia adventure guide for details on hotels, restaurants and excursions) The capital of Mongolia, Ulaanbaatar is mainly a jumping off point for excursions outside the city. Train services to Russia are more regular than the first leg of the trip. Ideally, you’ll want four to six weeks in Mongolia. Shorter stays of three to seven days still offer time to see part of the country.

Irkutsk - Nestled deep in Siberia, Irkutsk was once known as “the Paris of Russia.” While the city does retain a certain grit and charm, its main function now is as a gateway to Lake Baikal. Spend a day or two here arranging travel to the Lake as well as taking in a few sites.

Stay at Baikaler Hostel (www.baikaler.com, +7-3952-336-240) They offer dorms and homestays as well as assistance in arranging trips to Lake Baikal. Charming, English-speaking staff couldn’t be more helpful. $18 per person.

Eat at the Central Market. You can’t miss it. This sprawling labyrinth offers clothes, bric-a-brac, flowers and divine food. Pick up some fresh cheese (divine), deli meat, bread and cake (gorgeous) to eat back at the hostel. The food is beyond fresh and the best way to eat in Irkutsk.

See the magnificent Basilica just over the bridge, the multitude of churches, the Stalin bust, the Lenin statue, Trubetskoy house, the Art Museum and the Central market. Also, ride one of the classic trams. It is an experience.

Lake Baikal - The world’s largest freshwater lake, Baikal has enough drinkable H2O to quench the thirst of the entire planet for nearly forty years! It is remote, spectacular and beyond beautiful. Make sure to take a dip in the frigid waters. Russian folklore says a swim in the waters of Baikal will add 25 years to your life! There are three main ways to see the lake.

Day-trip - Most hostels offer a day-trip to the lake that usually includes a boat trip, a ride on the circum-rail that circles the lake and a stop in Lystvyanka - the closest lake town to Irkutsk.

Lystvyanka - situated 45 miles from Irkutsk, Lystvyanka is easily reachable by bus. While travel books claim Lystvyanka is now overrun by tourists, this writer found that claim ridiculous. Think tiny mountain lake town, only everything is in Russian. Plan to spend two days here.

Stay at Baikal Chalet Lystvyanka (From where the bus drops you, face the lake and walk left. Follow the lake to the seal show. Turn left into the valley down Gudina street and walk to number 75, travel@angara.ru, bookable on hostelworld.com) With private balconies that look out to the lake through the valley, Baikal Chalet is one of the few places in town offering affordable, lovely accommodation. Breakfast included, $30 per person.

Eat at one of the four cafes on the main road that runs along the lake. The yellow one has delicious pastries and the green one has enough options for at least three meals. Try the omel - a local fish.

See the lake from every angle. Ride the chairlift to the top of the highest peak for breathtaking views of dense forest, brilliant lake and snow-capped mountains. Take a cruise on the lake. Go scuba diving. Don’t forget to take a dip! 25 years!

Olkhon Island - a 6-hour drive from Irkutsk, Olkhon is the largest island within Baikal. Take a jeep tour to sandy beaches and enjoy the truly untouched naturally beauty before this place gets crowded. Plan to spend 5 days here, including two days for return transportation.

Stay, Eat and Do through the island’s best guesthouse – Nikita’s (Irkutsk Region, Olkhon area, Khuzhir, Kirpichnaya St., 8, http://www.olkhon.info/en/). Nikita’s is bookable online or through guesthouses in Irkutsk.

Yekaterinburg - It is a 51-hour train journey from Irkutsk to Yekaterinburg. As the train chugs effortlessly through the thick Russian taiga forest, the cabins come to life in an all-out onslaught of tradition Russian vodka drinking. Come prepared and know that you have a comfortable break waiting for you in Yekaterinburg - home to former President Boris Yeltsin and sight of the gruesome murder of Russia’s last Tsar and his family - the Romanovs. Now a booming steel town, real Armani and fake McDonald’s (called McPeak, and a serious status symbol) line the streets of this bustling University town. Plan to spend one full day here.

Stay at Meeting Point Hostel (87 Malysheva, Apt. 73, Bookable on hostelworld.com) Just a short tram ride from the train
station, Meeting Point feels like going home to Mom and Dad for a few days. Hot water, family photos and a fully stocked kitchen make this place the perfect break from train life. The owner speaks perfect English and is wildly excited to help you make the most of Yekaterinburg. $18 per person.

Eat at Studio Cafe, where you can also make the most of the free wi-fi. McPeak - a lawsuit waiting to happen - also has a certain level of kitsch-factor. Hit the grocery store and cook in as well. The apartment hostel is just so warm and cozy!

See the Basilica and now memorial to the Romanov family, who were brutally murdered by the Bolsheviks at the start of the communist revolution. Wander the river and pedestrian avenue as well. If you have time, check out the rotating photo exhibit at the Photography museum. For those who are so inclined, make sure to snap your own photo of the Lenin statue to add to your personal collection.

Moscow (See the Moscow city guide for details on hotels, restaurants and sites) You’ve made it! Wear your badge with pride as you explore Russia’s mighty capital - where money talks. Ideally, spend 5 days here.

St. Petersburg (See the St. Petersburg city guide for details on hotels, restaurants and sites) While not officially on the Trans-Siberian route, if you’ve come this far make sure you see Russia’s most beautiful city. Plan to spend a week here.



The Life Of A Train-Goer

While life may maintain some sense of normalcy on the first leg of this journey, no doubt this will not continue. With time zones jumping by at lightning speed while the train stays on “Moscow Time,” you will most certainly lose all sense of time and space. Just go with it.

Food - Bring your own! While the food is decent on both the China and Mongolia legs, Russian food cars are nothing to write home about. Prices seem to change on every visit, portions are small and the darn stuff is expensive! While it is possible to buy food on train platforms at stops, quality isn’t much better and prices are still high, Essentials on your packing lists should include: Bottled water, vodka, mixers, nutella, bread, instant noodles, candy bars, fresh fruit, cheese and deli meats. Also, pack a sharp knife, two forks, two spoons, two cups and two bowls. Remember, you won’t be moving much, so hunger may be fleeting.

Drinking - Stories vary, but it is common for Russian travelers to arrive at your cabin door insisting that you join them for vodka either in the dining car or in their own cabin. It is considered extremely rude to refuse this invitation. The only workable way out seems to be mimicking illness. Otherwise, head out and drink up!

Sleeping - If you travel in a pair, book a top and bottom bed on the same side. This guarantees a place to lay down and seats for two at all times. As for when to sleep, just listen to your body. Time is truly of the essence on this adventure.

Cabin Crew - Trains are - 99% of the time - staffed by middle-aged women who hate their work and hate you more. Do all you can to butter them up. This can come in the form of chocolate, vodka or jewelry. Such bribes are crucial if you ever want to use the toilet, as they’re locked for nearly 50% of the journey.

Time - While Russia has eight different time zones, all trains run on Moscow time. That is, it may be 6pm in Irkutsk, but that’s 1pm in Moscow and your train might leave at 7pm, but that’s Moscow time - so midnight in Irkutsk. So while the local citizens have their clocks set to local time, all the train stations house enormous clocks displaying Moscow time. This provides hours of conversation on the train. It goes something like this: “What time is it here? Okay, it’s 5pm Yekaterinburg, which is three hours ahead of Irkutsk, which is one behind Beijing. Now, we leave at noon Moscow time on Wednesday - what day is it? - Tuesday, okay. So we leave at noon Moscow time on Wednesday which means it’s now 4am in Los Angeles on Monday and noon in London, so with the stars in the third quadrant of the Milky Way and our having just passed the sixty first parallel, I think it’s time for lunch!” Set your time to Moscow when you leave Mongolia and work out everything from there. If this sounds confusing that’s because it is.



Bits and Bobs

As you cross the border from China to Mongolia, the train actually has all of its wheels changed from “Global Gauge” to “Russian Gauge.” The Russians did this to fend off invading trains during the Cold War. If you get off the train, plan to be off for several hours. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The “Duty Free” shop houses an impressive array of fake top-shelf liquor, from “Johnny Worker Song Red Square Whiskey” (Johnny Walker Red Label) to “Absolutely” vodka (Absolut).

Brush your teeth twice a day. This may sound obvious, but it keeps your body on some semblance of a schedule and keeps you clean.

Bring your own toilet paper. The train’s supply seems to disappear within minutes.

Let go. This is Siberia and it’s incredible!

--

Kyle Taylor

Mongolia - Mars, Only On Earth

Oops - A bit delayed, but tips on traveling in Mongolia!



The Country

At one time the Mongols, led by Genghis Khan, controlled nearly all of modern day Asia and parts of Europe. Situated between Russia and China, Mongolia has - in recent history - been treated like a wedge separating two great powers. The capital Ulaanbaatar is a bizarre place, as a nation of nomadic people attempts to engage with the world on terms that don’t fit their own identity. The real Mongolia, however, is easily accessible through numerous guesthouses that double as travel agents. The world’s least densely populated nation is home to pristine lakes, majestic mountains, the Gobi dessert and an adorable breed of miniature horses both native and unique to Mongolia. Spend the night star gazing in the middle of nowhere before heading to bed in a traditional nomadic yurt. Wake up to breathtaking landscapes that can be explored by car, horse or even camel. Whoever came up with the phrase “off the beaten path” must have been in Mongolia. This is the place to completely disappear.



The Lay of the Land

The capital Ulaanbaatar is situated in the eastern central part of the country. This is the best jump-off point to explore the country. The north offers lakes, rivers and mountains while the south is home to the mighty Gobi desert. The grasslands stretch east and west, with the far west offering the most remote and most beautiful countryside.



The Quick & Easy

Mongolia is a one-stop shop kind-of country. That is, the right guesthouse in Ulaanbaatar will mean the perfect holiday, as most plan excursions to every corner of the country. The most interesting way to get to Mongolia is via the weekly 36-hour sleeper train from Beijing. If gorgeous countryside and fascinating border crossings don’t appeal to you, Ulaanbaatar also has an international airport. For all your travel needs, try:

UB Guesthouse (www.ubguest.com, ubguest@hotmail.com) Bobby and Kim are Mongolia’s travel gurus. Spend two days in the capital regrouping, making excursion plans and sleeping in one of their $18 per night double rooms that offers free breakfast and wifi internet access. Bobby will sit you down upon arrival and give you all your options based on how much time you’ve got:

Three Days - Stay with a local family in Terelj National Park two hours outside Ulaanbaatar ($65 including all meals and horseback riding)

One Week - Head south to Genghis Khan’s ancient capital and the Gobi desert.

Two Weeks - Add one week in the north taking in mountains, lakes and rivers.

One month - Extend south and north to ten days and add another ten going half-way west.

Six Weeks - See all of Mongolia in the grand loop. Go south to the Gobi, north to the mountains and deep west to the one of the most remote places on earth. This is a holiday you’ll never forget.

During your brief stay in the capital don’t miss:

The Culture Show - A divine showing of song, dance, throat singing and Mongolia’s National Symphony Orchestra, who give London’s Royal Symphony a run for their money. The best $9 you’ll ever spend.

The Natural History Museum - The most complete dinosaur fossils on earth are housed here. Don’t pay the “photo” fee, as you can’t snap shots of the dinosaurs anyway.

Eat at Mongol Shabu. Take a right outside the UB Guesthouse then turn left at the first street. The nondescript sign will be on your left about 50 feet up. Incredible Mongolian hotpot for about $5 a person.

Stock up on pastries as Helmut Sachers Kaffee (Baga Toiruu 14, Opposite Ulaanbaatar City Bank, (976)-70114-734) Brigitte Cummings, a German expat, offers the most divine collection of Berliners, cheesecakes and bread you’ve ever seen. She’ll also help you figure out how to count the local currency, which is no easy task.

Mongolia is a place to just go with the flow. Check in to UB Guesthouse and just go from there. Trust me, it will all work out.

--

Kyle Taylor

St Petersburg - Perfect

The City

St. Petersburg was built as Russia’s “window to the west” and it remains perhaps the most “European” part of this enormous nation. Tree-lined avenues, charming bridges, elegant architecture and a network of canals that rivals both Amsterdam and Venice make this the perfect walking city. Even under Soviet oppression St. Petersburg managed to keep a lightness and an air about it that other parts of the country simply could not manage. St. Petersburg is to Moscow what San Francisco is to New York. Culture and nightlife are explosive yet there’s a sense that people aren’t in nearly as big a hurry. Cruise down the river Neva to Peterhof - Russia’s Versailles. Wander room after room of the Hermitage - the world’s largest art collection. Sip champagne in a waterside cafe. Whatever you do, don’t rush. This is St. Petersburg - where life will never pass you by.



The Lay of the Land

St. Petersburg is situated along the River Neva. Nevskiy Prospect - the city’s main avenue - extends from the river to the train station and is lined with shops, churches, monuments and people. The Winter Palace, which houses the Hermitage, is just east of Nevskiy Prospect, squeezed gently between the river and Palace Square, where the Bolshevik Revolution came to fruition over ninety years ago. The canals spiral outward from the river and most canal-side streets intersect Nevskiy Prospect. Over the river is Peter and Paul Fortress as well as several other museums. Make Palace Square your point of reference and explore from there. Note - clubs, bars, restaurants and even sites are opening and closing constantly. In addition, due to high inflation prices increase without notice. Be advised - use the following information as a general guide only and verify prices online closer to your departure.



The Must-Sees and Must-Dos

The Hermitage (36 Nab Dvortsovaya, Metro Nevskiy) The world’s largest art collection at three million pieces. Clearly not all of them are on display at once. Beyond the art (which is exceptional) the architecture inside is absolutely mind-blowing. There
is a room made entirely of gold. Admission is free for all students and about $8 for adults. Plan to spend an entire day here.

St. Isaac’s Cathedral (Metro Nevskiy or Sennaya Ploschad) Capped by a dome made of 550 pounds of solid gold, St. Isaac’s Cathedral is monumental to say the least. Make sure to climb the 270 steps for spectacular views over the city. Entry $6
Church of Our Saviour On Spilled Blood (Metro Nevskiy) Very similar to St. Basil’s in Moscow, this gem is home to the world’s largest tile mosaic. Its canal-side location is also rather charming. Entry $5.

Peter & Paul Fortress (Metro Gorkovskaya) Where the city all began, the fortress is now the final resting place of Russia’s last Tsar and his family. One ticket allows admission to all sites inside. Don’t miss the Chapel of St. Catherine The Martyr, the Peter and Paul Cathedral and Trubetskoy Bastion (prison) where both Trotsky and Dostoevsky were held at one time. Entry $6

The Museum of Political History of Russia (Kuybysheva 2, Metro Gorkovskaya) Another exceptionally curated collection of artifacts tracing Russia’s darkest days, the museum visit includes a 120-page guide in English that gives descriptions of every item in the museum. Don’t miss Gorbachev’s letter of resignation, among other incredible relics. Entry $3

Dostoevsky House (5/2 Kuznechnyy, Metro Vladimirskaya) Where the man himself lived and wrote The Brother’s Karamozov. For anyone who has ever survived a Russian literature class, a visit here somehow makes it feel all worthwhile. Entry $3

Along Nevskiy (Metro Nevskiy) St. Petersburg’s major thoroughfare, the avenue is dotted with churches, monuments and history. Don’t miss the Admiralty and the Bronze Horseman of Peter the Great at end near the river, the Kazansky Cathedral and the statue of Catherine the Great.

The Ballet (Book tickets at Nevsky Souvenir, 3 Nevsky Prospect (on the corner where Nevsky Prospect ends at Admiralty), +7 (812) 312-68-02, www.nevskysouvenir.com) St. Petersburg is home to the world’s greatest ballet and you should absolutely indulge in a performance. The Mariinskiy Theater (1 Teatralnaya) is the nation’s most famous. As such, prices are a bit steep, ranging from $75 to over $200. Alternatively, the

Palace Theater (13 Italyanska, Metro Gostiny Dvor) offers a regular season of Swan Lake and The Nutcracker. While this is supposedly “the tourist show,” watching the St. Petersburg Ballet Company and listening to the St. Petersburg Philharmonic Orchestra felt pretty perfect. Tickets range from $30 to about $100.



The Eats

Like all of Russia, dining out is expensive, even at fast food kiosks on the street. Fortunately, the concept restaurant is alive and well in St. Petersburg, which means you’re not only getting food but an entire “experience.” Cafe culture is huge here, as is American-style country cookin’.

Russian

Teremok (60 Nevsky pr, Metro Nevsky) A “fast food” chain in St. Petersburg that’s not all that fast in a good way. Made to order blinis filled with pretty much anything you like, delicious soups and delectable deserts make this a great option. Meal for one around $8.

Yolki-Palki (88 Nevsky pr, Metro Mayakovskaya) Quite possibly “too Russian,” this “authentic eating experience” comes complete with stuffed roosters, staff in “authentic costumes” and buffet-style Russian grub. Not bad at all. Meal for one around $12.

Pyshki (25 Bolshaya Konyushennaya, Metro Nevsky) Stop in with the Russians for a quick hot, fresh donut...or maybe a dozen? At 25 cents each there is nothing more affordable. The 50-cent cup of coffee was also top-notch.
Not Russian

Khachapurnaya (154 Ligovsky pr, Metro Ligovsky) Quite possibly the most delicious meal this writer has ever eaten. Serving traditional Georgian food, this 5-table wonder will blow your mind with the hot, fresh, and overwhelmingly delicious meals on offer. There is no English menu but try khachipuri, kebab & the spicy soup. You won’t regret it. Meal for one around $15.

Trans-Force (88 Nevsky pr, Metro Mayakovskaya) Not just dinner, but an intergalactic voyage through time and space. Sit down behind your control panel, order food from a digital screen and take in the 270-degree 3D virtual space voyage. You’ll have to see it to fully understand. Meals for one around $10.

Cafe Zoom (22 Gorokhovaya, Metro Sennaya Ploschad) The coolest-looking menus this writer has ever seen. This place is almost always packed, so arrive before the dinner rush or be prepared to wait. Don’t worry, it’s worth it. Meal for one around $10.

Teplo (45 Bolsaya Morskaya, Metro Sennaya Ploschad, www.v-teple.ru) From the adorable wallpaper to freshly baked breads and deserts, Teplo’s soul food will be much appreciated on a cold Russian afternoon. Come for dinner and stay for coffee, cocktails and dessert. You really won’t want to leave. Dinner for one around $15.

The Nightlife

Despite its more relaxed vibe, the nightlife in St. Petersburg is absolutely on fire. Whether gay or straight, you’re guaranteed to be out dancing, drinking and jiving until the sun comes up.

Central Station (1/28 ulitsa Lomonosova, Metro Nevskiy Prospect) The place to be in St. Petersburg - especially on Friday and Saturday night. Multiple dance floors,3am drag shows and the most bizarre bathroom ever seen in a nightclub make Central Station a must on any visit to St. Petersburg. Free entry for students all night long. Cover ranges but is usually $10.

Liverpool (16 Mayakovskogo, Metro Pl. Vosstaniya) Easily the best pub in St. Petersburg. Just come to relax and drink a beer.

JFC Jazz Club (33 Ul. Shpalernaya, Metro Chernyshevskaya) The best jazz in Russia and an excellent lounge scene to go with it.

Marstall (5 Nab. kan. Griboedova, Metro Nevsky) St. Petersburg’s current reigning champion in the nightlife scene. The party doesn’t really get going until 3am and it rages on into the wee hours of the morning. Cover can be steep. Expect to pay at least $10.



The Escape

No trip to St. Petersburg would be complete without a visit to Peterhof. (Take the train from Baltiyskiy train station at Baltiyskaya Metro. From there, take almost any bus to Peterhof. Look for signs in the bus window. On the way back, take bus number 103 to the metro) Built by the Peters and expanded by Catherine as Russia’s very own Versailles, the scale, scope and majesty of this inspired Summer Palace make it a must-see. The palace is split into upper and lower gardens. While the upper gardens are free to wander and beautiful, the lower gardens are home to nearly 100 gold fountains shooting brilliantly into a canal that empties into the Gulf of Finland. Don’t miss the rock fountains. Supposedly, there is just one that makes the water shoot. Can you find it?

The Tips and Tricks

It’s difficult to get to The Hermitage and other main sites using the metro, as there are no stops nearby. Alternatively, catch almost any bus heading down Nevskiy Prospect and hop off near the river.

Lines at the Hermitage can often be hours long. Arrive before opening to ensure that you have a full day to explore. Also, note that a ticket is good only once. You cannot come in and out!

There is a hydrofoil that leaves from near The Hermitage to Peterhof in high season. While prices are steep compared to the train, it’s a great way to see the incredible buildings that line the waterfront.

Moscow - Undercover Capital

The City

As you approach Red Square, a stream of contradictions swirls before your eyes. At one end stands the awe-inspiring St. Basil’s Cathedral, complete with multi-colored onion domes. The influence of the Russian Orthodox church ripples outward across Russia from here. Opposite the Cathedral stands the State History Museum - home to a slightly cleansed version of Russia’s last one hundred years. The deep-red Kremlin wall runs the length of the square from the Cathedral to the State History Museum. It stands as an enduring reminder of political power in Russia from Tsars to the Bolsheviks, Perestroika to new democracy. Lenin peers across the square from his tomb situated directly in the center of the square. In perhaps the biggest contradiction of them all, he lays facing the GUM - one of the world’s most exclusive shopping malls and home to only the best designers and labels. But the bottom line, however, is this: if you’ve got the cash, you can do whatever you want. This is Moscow. Where money talks and nothing else.

The Lay of the Land

Moscow is situated along both sides of the Moscow River, which contains several islands and inlets. Red Square is at the center of it all, and several ring roads circle outward from there. This is not a walkable city. Fortunately, the extensive (and gorgeous) metro can take you everywhere you’ll want to go. Most museums and sites are situated around Red Square and north toward Pushkinskaya Square. The Arbat - a major pedestrian thoroughfare and once the center of Soviet Union counterculture - stretches west from Kremlin. Hotels, restaurants and nightlife are all around you. After all, this is the largest city in Europe! Grab a free city map when you arrive and get acquainted. This place is huge.



The Must-Sees and Must-Dos

A note on tourism in Moscow - with inflation at nearly 10%, prices are constantly changing. Rather than offer specifics for each site, simply expect to pay between $5 and $8 for most attractions. The Kremlin is Moscow’s priciest attraction at $10. While student discounts are available at every site, there seems to be no universal enforcement policy. That means some places will accept a foreign student ID, some places will accept an ISIC card and some places will only accept a Russian student ID. Finally, a note on opening times. They change all the time. Check with your accommodation upon arrival for an updated schedule. As a general rule, museums are closed on Mondays.

Red Square (Red Square, Metro Alexandrovsky Sad) Comprising St. Basil’s Cathedral, the GUM Shopping Mall, Lenin’s Tomb, Kazan Cathedral & The State History Museum, Red Square remains the epicenter of both Moscow and Russia. Take in each part of the “new Russia” by exploring the church, the politics and the consumer culture that now permeates the Moscow scene. A few tips:

Lenin’s Mausoleum is open from 10am to 1pm Tuesday to Sunday. Arrive early to snag a place in line. While passing through do not put your hands in your pockets and do not stop walking unless you want the Red Guard to have their way with you.
Make sure to stop by at night to see the buildings a-flitter in all their evening beauty. It is oddly magical.

The Kremlin (Red Square, Metro Alexandrovsky Sad) Straddling the entire southwest side of Red Square, the Kremlin has been the political epicenter of Russia for literally hundreds of years. Enter from the north side near the gardens just west of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Don’t miss The Armoury (separate ticket necessary), which is full of the Russian Empire’s most divine treasures. Groups are allowed in at 10am, noon, 2pm and 4pm for 90 minutes. Arrive early! English audio guides included at no extra charge.

The Gulag Museum (16 Petrovka, Metro Alexandrovsky Sad) Traces the horrific period of forced imprisonment that found millions of Russians doing hard labour in the world’s harshest climate - Siberia. Ex-inmates are commonly around and very eager to share their stories. Exhibits are in Russian only so brining an English guide is highly recommended.

The Contemporary History Museum (21 Tverskaya ul, Metro Pushkinskaya, www.sovr.ru) Traces the history of Russia from Tsar to Lenin to Stalin to Gorbachev to Putin! All exhibits are in both Russian and English. A very well-constructed and surprisingly honest depiction of Russia’s last several hundred years.
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour (15 ul Volkhonka, Metro Kropotkinskaya) A masterpiece. The gold-covered onion domes are mesmerizing and visible from all over the city. Stalin had the original smashed to the ground and used the marble to build his beautiful subway. Version 2.0 was built in just two years at a cost of nearly $400 million. Admission is free.

Tolstoy Literary Museum (11 ul Prechistenka, Metro Kropotkinskaya) A plethora of superlatives telling the tale of perhaps Russia’s greatest novelist. The English captions alone are worth the visit. That and the museum’s first edition of War and Peace.

The Vodka Museum (Metro Partizanskaya, look for the enormous “Moscow Disneyland” looking structure and walk toward it, www.vodkamuseum.ru) Beyond kitsch but a telling English-language tale (maybe say “good English-language description”?) of where Russia’s most popular drink comes from. Massive collection of mint quality vodka bottles as well as Smirnoff’s first distilling bottle. Free shots at the end make it very worthwhile.

Izmaylovo Market (Metro Partizanskaya. Exit, turn left and walk straight until you run into a building. Follow the building around to the right. Keep walking straight for about 5 minutes and you’ll hit the market) The place for Russian dolls, mini Kremlins and vintage pins and badges. Delicious Georgian kebab are sold here as well.
Cosmonautics Museum (Metro VDNKh) While the exhibition is in Russian only, the videos of experiments conducted in space, Yuri Gregarian’s first space suit, an enormous collection of space ships and life-size reconstruction of Mir make this a must-see. The soaring 150-foot statue that sits atop the building is rather impressive as well.
Sculpture Park (10 Krimsky val, Metro Tretyakovskaya) Piles of old Lenin and Stalin statues are situated awkwardly amongst modern art installations and a bizarre country cottage. Great views of the enormous Peter the Great Statue as well, which sits in the Moscow River.

Novodevichy Cemetary & Convent (Luzhnetsky poezd, Metro Sportivnaya) The oldest in Moscow and still operating. The cemetery is the burial ground of some of Russia’s most famous figures as well. Check the listing upon entry to find out whose tombs are open.

The Arbat (Metro Biblioteka Lenina) Once the hub of Moscow (and Russia’s) counterculture, the Arbat is the first place you’d have seen Levi’s jeans and heard the Rolling Stones during Perestroika. Now it’s a fairly kitsch pedestrian thoroughfare lined with restaurants, shops and street performers. Make sure you walk all the way to the end to catch a glimpse at the majestic 1950’s Art Nouveau buildings that used to adorn Moscow’s skyline.

Ride The Metro (The Metro!) Believe it or not, it’s a tourist attraction in and of itself! Gorgeous chandeliers, bronze statues and tile mosaics adorn the walls and ceilings of the world’s most beautiful public transportation system. Start at Komsomolskaya and make your way around to Prospekt Mira, Novoslobodskaya, Krasnopresnenskaya, Kievskaya, Ploshchad Revolyutsii, Teatralnaya & Mayakovskaya in that order.

Banya - It’s a traditional Russian sauna complete with ritual tree branch slapping. Exhilarating, exhausting and interesting all at the same time. Try Banya on Presnya (7 Stolyarny, Metro Ulitsa 1905 Goda) $25 admission.



The Crash Pad

Moscow is now an international city and with that comes international hotels. Beyond the usual suspects - The Marriott, The Hyatt, W and so on - there are some hidden gems. But beware - accommodation is obscenely expensive. Expect to pay $350 a night at The Marriott. Some recommendations are below.

Hotel Metropol (1/4 Teatralny poezd, Metro Teatralnaya, www.metropol-moscow.ru) Quite possibly the most beautiful hotel in Russia. Tile mosaics, swirling staircases and 5-star luxury make this THE place to stay if money is no object. Rooms start at $500 a night.

Godzilla’s Hostel (6 Bolshoi Karetny, +7 (495) 699-4223, www.godzillashostel.com) Quite possibly the cleanest hostel this writer has ever seen. Offers both dorm and private accommodation, wireless internet, kitchens and a TV lounge with nightly movie screenings. Staff speaks excellent English. Dorms start at $25 a night while doubles run about $35 per person per night.



The Eats

People go on and on about how terrible Russian food is, but this writer is going to disagree. Yes it’s expensive (absurdly expensive) and yes it’s hearty, but it’s soul food through and through and there is nothing wrong with that.

Russian

Moo-Moo (45/23 ul Arbat, Metro Smolenskaya) While it is a chain, this Russian buffet-style restaurant offers hot meals and decent prices. Just point to what you want. Oh, and try to snag the table under the giant plastic tree. It adds to the ambiance. Meals $5 and up.

Yolki-Palki (8/10 Neglinnaya, Metro Kuznetsky Most) “Traditional Russian food” served by people wearing “traditional Russian outfits.” The kitsch-factor is off the charts, but the food is good and the stuffed roosters everywhere really gives it a little something extra. Try the kvass - a slightly alcoholic traditional Russian drink. Meals run $8 and up.

Pelmeshka (3/4 Kuznetsky Most, Metro Teatralnaya) Cheap. Russian. Grub. It’s that simply. Try the delicious pelmeni. Meals $6 and up.

Not Russian

TaDaCe (Metro Biblioteka Lenina) Sushi, meat dishes and Moscow’s cheapest pasta bowl at $1.75. Sushi runs $6 and up for 6 rolls. Free wifi.

Starlite Diner (16 Bolshaya Sadovaya, Metro Mayakovskaya) For whatever reason, Russians are fascinated with American-style diners and this may be the crowning achievement. Typical diner fair that is surprisingly delicious. Burgers $10 and up. American-size Pepsi $4. Open 24 hours.

Bits and Bobs

Coffee Shops - They are everywhere! Russians seem to be obsessed. Stop in for a cafe latte and a delicious cake.

Supermarkets - Look for the word “Market” and you’re all set. Prices are much lower than in restaurants and the fresh cheese and deli meats are divine.



The Nightlife

Two things define Moscow nightlife - money and looks. “Face control” is now infamous as bouncers decide who enters and who doesn’t based on their hotness. Beware: they’re not afraid to let you know they think you’re ugly. ALWAYS dress to impress and if possible, arrive in a car. Make sure you take a second mortgage on your house before you head out. Cocktails start at $10 and go sky high from there.

Karma Bar (3 Pushechnaya, Metro Kuznetsky Most) Chilled out, relaxed and a generally liberal, mixed scene. Perfect for that after hours cocktail.

Propaganda (7 Bolshoy Zlatoustinsky, Metro Lubyanka) Still considered to be the best club in Moscow (and arguably Russia) Propaganda is the epitome of glitterati. Wear your Sunday best. Propaganda is gay on Sundays and the party is absolutely incredible. Again, cover varies but shouldn’t be more than $10.



The Tips and Tricks

The Cyrillic Alphabet - Russia uses the cyrillic alphabet. At first it will look unintelligible. Take a few hours before you leave to learn it, as it will make getting around much easier. Many words are pronounced similarly, so being able to say them means you’ll be able to understand where you are and what you’re doing.

Tourist Map and Book - The city has a free guidebook called “In Your Pocket.” In it you’ll find restaurants, clubs, sites and most importantly - maps! Pick one up seemingly anywhere.

Hours and Prices Change Constantly - This is true for restaurants, museums and sites. Inflation is just under 10%, which means costs are going up and up. Take all estimates here lightly and know you’ll probably have to add 10-20% upon arrival.

Photo Permits – Russian museums like to snag a little extra cash by charging you to take pictures. The price ranges from $1.50 on up to $5. Don’t buy this “feature” at museums, as most exhibits prohibit pictures anyway. In the Armoury and in the churches it is highly recommended.

Registration - You have to register your presence with the government for all stays over 3 business days and within three days of arriving in Russia. Don’t mess with the police and just do it. Most hotels and hostels offer a registration service for around $20. Just have it done for you. Also, carry your passport on you at all times.

Mongolia - Mars, Only On Earth

The Country

At one time the Mongols - led by Genghis Khan - controlled nearly all of modern day Asia and parts of Europe. Situated between Russia and China, Mongolia has - in recent history - been treated like a wedge separating two great powers. The capital Ulaanbaatar is a bizarre place, as a nation of nomadic people attempts to engage with the world on terms that don’t fit their own identity. The real Mongolia, however, is easily accessible through numerous guesthouses that double as travel agents. The world’s least densely populated nation is home to pristine lakes, majestic mountains, the Gobi dessert and an adorable breed of miniature horses both native and unique to Mongolia. Spend the night star gazing in the middle of nowhere before heading to bed in a traditional nomadic yurt. Wake up to breathtaking landscapes that can be explored by car, horse or even camel. Whoever came up with the phrase “off the beaten path” must have been in Mongolia. This is the place to completely disappear.



The Lay of the Land

The capital Ulaanbaatar is situated in the eastern central part of the country. This is the best jump-off point to explore the country. The north offers lakes, rivers and mountains while the south is home to the mighty Gobi desert. The grasslands stretch east and west, with the far west offering the most remote and most beautiful countryside.



The Quick & Easy

Mongolia is a one-stop shop kind-of country. That is, the right guesthouse in Ulaanbaatar will mean the perfect holiday, as most plan excursions to every corner of the country. The most interesting way to get to Mongolia is via the weekly36-hour sleeper train from Beijing. If gorgeous countryside and fascinating border crossings don’t appeal to you, Ulaanbaatar also has an international airport. For all your travel needs, try:

UB Guesthouse (www.ubguest.com, ubguest@hotmail.com) Bobby and Kim are Mongolia’s travel gurus. Spend two days in the capital regrouping, making excursion plans and sleeping in one of their $18 per night double rooms that offers free breakfast and wifi internet access. Bobby will sit you down upon arrival and give you all your options based on how much time you’ve got:
Three Days - Stay with a local family in Terelj National Park two hours outside Ulaanbaatar ($65 including all meals and horseback riding)
One Week - Head south to Genghis Khan’s ancient capital and the Gobi desert.
Two Weeks - Add one week in the north taking in mountains, lakes and rivers.
One month - Extend south and north to ten days and add another ten going half-way west.
Six Weeks - See all of Mongolia in the grand loop. Go south to the Gobi, north to the mountains and deep west to the one of the most remote places on earth. This is a holiday you’ll never forger.



During your brief stay in the capital don’t miss:

The Culture Show - A divine showing of song, dance, throat singing and Mongolia’s National Symphony Orchestra, who gave London’s Royal Symphony a run for their money. The best $9 you’ll ever spend.
The Natural History Museum - The most complete dinosaur fossils on earth are housed here. Don’t pay the “photo” fee, as you can’t snap shots of the dinosaurs anyway.
Eat at Mongol Shabu. Take a right outside the UB Guesthouse then turn left at the first street. The nondescript sign will be on your left about 50 feet up. Incredible Mongolian hotpot for about $5 a person.
Stock up on pastries as Helmut Sachers Kaffee (Baga Toiruu 14, Opposite Ulaanbaatar City Bank, (976)-70114-734) Brigitte Cummings, A German expat, offers the most divine collection of Berliners, cheesecakes and bread you’ve ever seen. She’ll also help you figure out how to count the local currency, which is no easy task.

Mongolia is a place to just go with the flow. Check in to UB Guesthouse and just go from there. Trust me, it will all work out.

--

Kyle Taylor

3 Days In Yangshuo

Yangshuo - [Almost] Falling Off The Beaten Path
The Perfect Three-Day Escape


The Area

Landing at Guilin Airport means you’re nearly half-way to Yangshuo in a “two more buses is tough but adventurous and intriguing” kind-of way. The first crawls - air-conditioned - through the wild amount of road works taking place to expand the highway that connects the city to its primary transportation hub. The second - which doesn’t leave from the bus station at which you just arrived - takes just over an hour not for sake of distance, but because it must compete with tractors, scooters, motorcycles, bicycles and other moving contraptions for space on the road. Thankfully, the road weaves through the start of some of the world’s most beautiful scenery, as mystical karsts jut from the earth in every direction. This is a very different China. Distant, remote and reminiscent of everything you’ve seen in every Dynastic period film set in this - the Middle Kingdom. Enjoy the ride, let go and get ready to be inspired.


The Nuts and Bolts

The Lay of The Land

Yangshuo town is located 60 kilometers south of Guilin - the closest major city. The town itself is kitsch central, emitting every tourist stereotype in the book. Bags, DVDs and jewelry at exorbitant prices (read: this is NOT the place to shop in China). The aptly named “West Street” is lined with restaurants promising “western food,” though even the locals admit it is really “Yangshuo western.” Unfortunately, McDonald’s and KFC found their way into town last year and Chinese people line up for burgers, chicken and the like in droves.

The real draw, however, isn’t the town itself but the breathtaking scenery that extends for miles in every direction. Just a few minutes out of town by bike or scooter (the best way to see the countryside) and you feel like you’ve fallen completely off the map. It seems that nothing has really changed here. Farmers still go about there business and hardly notice the occasional “laowei” (foreigners) as they pass. Oxen are lead into the river as an escape from the pounding heat (over 100 degrees a good portion of the year) and while bamboo rafts have begun to pollute the waters near town, a few more miles out and it’s just you, your boat-master and absolute silence - a rarity in hectic China.

The point: Unless you’re coming to Yangshuo for over-priced cocktails, bad pizza and karaoke, just grab your bike or motorcycle in town and then get out!

The Crash Pad
West Street - Every restaurant and bar doubles as a hostel. Stay here if you want the partying and the noise (which goes until 2am every night, courtesy of live Chinese bands).
Yangshuo Mountain Retreat (+86-(0773)-8777-091, reservations@ yangshuomountainretreat.com, www.yangshuomountainretreat.com) Located 7 miles outside town alongside the river, the foreign-owned and locally staffed eco-lodge sits right along the river against a backdrop of enormous karsks. There is a daily shuttle into town and if you’ve rented a bike or motorcycle, it’s easy to get back and forth. This place is the absolute escape, though the food can be pricey and their are no other eating options within walking distance. They also have a small swimming area. $72 a night for river views, $50 a night to face the karsks.
Yangshuo Culture House (110 Beisan Xiang, Chengzi Road, Yangshuo, 541900, Guilin, China, +86-136-3514-0816, x_xiaogeng@hotmail.com, www.yangshuo-study-travel.com) Nearly 50 countries visited and this is by-far the most impressive place I have ever stayed. While the rooms are standard and price is on par with other places in Yangshuo, the culture house includes ALL your meals, which comprised some of the most delicious Chinese dishes I have ever eaten. You’re actually staying in the family home alongside anywhere from four to ten other guests. Breakfast of toast, toppings and fruit is served every morning 8am to noon, lunch is by request (fried rice) and dinner is a feast of every delectable Chinese dish imaginable. No matter what guests have been doing throughout the day, everyone is certain to back for the 6pm dinner because it is just THAT GOOD. Guests take a seat around the massive dining table, which leads to a short silence while everyone fills their bowl. This is followed by - if you like - hours of interesting conversation with people from around the World. Wei the owner will pick you up from the bus station, rent you a bike, get you tickets to the area’s impressive light show, let you watch them cook and teach you mahjong, calligraphy and survival Chinese if you’re interested. Just a mile outside of town, the neighborhood is quiet and quite “real.” All rooms are air-conditioned, some with private bath. Vegetarians welcome and catered too. I can’t rave about this place enough. It’s brilliant. $20 for a two-person double, roughly $10 for each additional person (including meals and classes).


The Eats
Wander West Street for an eclectic selection of western and Chinese food.
Stay at Yangshuo Culture House and eat your meals there. It’s divine!


The Nightlife
Bars and clubs line West Street. Try Lisa’s for chilled Chinese rock and everywhere else if you’re into late 90’s, early 00’s American pop. Who isn’t?


The Perfect Three Days

With the blistering heat pounding down, the key to Yangshuo is to pace yourself. Allow for recovery time somewhere that is air-conditioned or work in a swim.

Day One

Arrive the evening before just in time for dinner at Yangshuo Culture House. Upon flying in to Guilin airport you can either take a direct taxi to Yangshuo for about $35 or ride the airport bus ($3) to Guilin and catch either the local bus ($1.50) or express bus ($2) to Yangshuo. The whole journey take about 2 hours.

Take a good shower and hit the sack early. Surface by 8am and eat a hearty breakfast
at the hostel. Book tickets for Impressions by Sanjie Liu (who directed the 2008 Beijing Olympics opening ceremonies). The awe-inspiring river light show starts every night at 8pm and Wei at Yangshuo Culture House sells near-front-row seats with round-trip transportation for $21. Also let Wei know you want to book a river cruise from Xingping for the next morning ($20).

Next, wander into town and rent bikes. Ask to keep them for two days. Bike Asia (2nd Floor, 42 Guihua Rd, Yangshuo, Guangxi, P.R. China, 541900, +86-(0773)-882-6521, vivian@bikeasia.com, www.bikeasia.com) rents high-quality mountain bikes for $7 a day with a $55 deposit (standard). Ask for Vivian. Otherwise, find one of the million bike renters who are stocked with the “Yangshuo Special” which goes for $1.50 a day.

Ask for the “big brown map” (they’ll know what that is) and set off from town for Dragon Bridge (a 2-hour cycle) via the “back roads” that run along the river and through the rice fields. Once you’re into your ride, follow the red arrows that are spray-painted on buildings and poles. They mark the path. Trust me, you’ll know them when you see them. If you’re nervous you can hire an English-speaking guide for $12-$25 a day.

Arrive at the bridge around 11am. Have a sit-down and take a dip. If you’ve got the courage, take a leap from the 30-foot bridge into the 20-foot-deep water. It’s exhilarating and the locals will watch on in wonderment. Opt for a fried rice for lunch ($2) then grab a bamboo raft down the river ($23 per 2-person boat).

While most bamboo raft rides start further downstream, boarding here means nearly two hours of just you, your raft-master, gorgeous scenery, still water and absolute quiet. They’ll load the bikes on the back. Expect to disembark around 3pm. From there, it’s a 45-minute bike ride back to the hostel. Take a shower and a nap pre-dinner, but be sure to surface at 6pm.

Arranged transportation will pick you up at 6:50pm for the show and you’re set for the evening. Be sure to bring mosquito repellant! Back around 10pm, crash and get ready for day two.

Day Two

Hit breakfast again at 8am and transfer to your morning cruise in Xingping. Let Wei know you’ll be back for lunch post-cruise. Make sure to bring a 20 yuan note with you, as the picture on the back is taken from the Xingping area. Be ready for a taxi to a bus to a mini-bus to a short walk to board your boat, as well as about a million other boats trolling the stream. While they no doubt take away from the splendor, this area of the river is still THAT BEAUTIFUL to make it worthwhile. Wander the local market before heading back to the hostel for lunch.

Get ready for a relaxing afternoon! You’ve earned it. Hop on your bicycles and head to the Yangshuo Mountain Retreat (Address above, 30 minutes by cycle) for an afternoon swim/sunbathing/soda and french fries experience. Just make sure to leave in time for dinner! Drop off your bikes on the way back and pick up a DVD. Don’t forget to take your bike deposit! Take a motorcycle taxi back to the hostel ($1.50). Grab the handlebars behind you, let your hair down and enjoy the short ride. It’s a truly Chinese experience. If you’re back in time, watch them prepare dinner in the kitchen then dive in to the delectable creations. Get to know your fellow guests! No doubt they’re interesting people. Cap the day off with a movie and hit the sack before midnight.

Day Three

Get up and out early yet again! You’ve got to beat the afternoon heat. Pack your bags and checkout, leaving your stuff at the hostel for the day. Stuff down breakfast then wander back into town and rent a scooter ($13 for the day, $55 deposit plus ID card as collateral). Don’t forget your helmet and your map!

Now, head in whichever direction strikes your fancy. The further afield you get, the more remote and untouched it will look and feel. Turn off into small paved and not-paved roads. Let yourself go. Take a break around 2pm for lunch and an escape from the heat wherever you end up. Some sites to consider on the journey: Moon Hill, The Water and Mud Caves, market days in Fuli and Baishi. Just get lost then find your way back for dinner at 6pm!

Post-dining grab a taxi to the express bus to the airport bus for one of the late-night flights to other China destinations. Pat yourself on the back for three days well done.


The Tips & Tricks

If you have more days, do more exploring! Another day on the scooter in a totally different direction will no doubt lead to an entirely different adventure.
Bike Asia also organizes day-long cycling trip all over the region. Wander in or send an email for more information.
Rock climbing is also big in the area. Stop into any tourism bureau to arrange. Also ask Wei at Yangshuo Culture House. He can book or recommend anything and everything.
Another fascinating day trip goes the the Longji Terraces - farmland that has literally been carved into the side of a mountain. It’s three and a half hours each way, with lunch and sightseeing in the middle. A fairly gorgeous bus ride as well.
No promises on the hygiene inside the Mud Cave. Enter and cover yourself in mud at your own risk.
Don’t shop for bags, jewelry or DVDS en masse here! The mark-ups are enormous and locals aren’t all that interested in bargaining.
Remember that Yangshuo is also a top destination for Chinese tourists, so don’t be surprised if the only other foreigners you seem to run into are staying at your guesthouse.

Don’t Miss This Place. It’s A Must-See, Must-Do, Must-Must!

--

Kyle Taylor