Showing posts with label transylvania. Show all posts
Showing posts with label transylvania. Show all posts

02 December 2009

Death Car

Transylvania - Sinaiia - 13

We’ve had incredible luck with our cars on this trip until Romania. The Opel Corsa did us good in Estonia and Latvia and the Volkswagen Polo somehow managed to carry five Anglos from corner to corner with very little effort. The story here, however, is quite different. First, we paid nearly twice as much per day for a Dacia Logan. If you’re thinking to yourself, “what the heck is a Dacia?” that’s because you have never and will never EVER purchase one. It is Romania’s national car company and the Logan represents 50% of sales not because it’s “that good” but because it’s “that cheap.” At $36 a day it was by far the best deal we could find, though if I had known it may mean the end of me, I might have splurged for something NOT awful.

Lets start with the radio. One hour into our journey it just stops working for no reason at all. Mind you, this is a road trip and no music means listening to the sound of the exhausted motor as we crawl up and down winding roads. This leads us to plugging a mini speaker into my iPod and setting it in the cup holder. While it’s barely loud enough to hear, it’s better than nothing. The radio does come back to life at random moments but within ten minutes it begins its slow and depressing death once more, flickering on and off, in and out until all noise fades away completely like an engine running out of gas.

Transylvania - Sinaiia - 17

Romanian drivers are THE WORST. They dart out into the road, pass on blind turns and have no sense of personal space. As such, a horn would be wildly useful. At one moment a man driving a horse-drawn carriage leapt into oncoming traffic using a whip and his middle finger. I went to blast the horn only to find that there is, in fact, no horn on the steering wheel. Instead, the button in on the blinker bar., meaning you have to simultaneously hold on to the steering wheel at 10 and 2 while reaching around with your pinky finger to “show em’ who’s boss..” Good one Dacia. Good one.

The windows were fogging intermittently because it was cold outside and hot inside but also because the car is a piece of crap. I went to turn on the AC only to discover that the button is, in fact, permanently wedged in the “on” position. Thankfully (I guess) that’s where we wanted it).

Do you want to back up? Well, pay attention. Reverse is where 6th gear should be and there is no 6th gear.

How about inclement weather, like the snow storm we came across in the depths of a Transylvanian night? Switchback roads, half-working headlights, a broken fog lamp and a snow storm. Things you need: windshield wipers and wiper fluid to keep the windshield clear. Things we don’t have: wiper blades and wiper fluid. That meant a horrific screeching sound as the metal rods glided spastically from floor to side. Floor to side. Screech! Screech! Slam! Screech! Screech! Slam! I pull the “trigger” to spray some washer fluid. Nothing. I try again. Nothing. We pull into a service station to buy the necessary items as I curse the mafia-esque man who rented us this piece of [expletive] car.

I chalk up my survival to paranoia, fear and sheer luck. Next time, I want something NOT made in a former Communist country.

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Kyle Taylor

01 December 2009

Lets Do The Time Warp...In Transylvania!

Transylvania - Bran - Draculas Castle - 05

You may be thinking, “hey, Transylvania is where Dracula is from. That’s a fairy tale. It doesn’t really exist, does it?” Yes. Yes it does, and it’s in Romania. In fact, Transylvania comprises the entire western half of this charming little country. A collection of small cities and villages nestled deep in the Transylvanian mountains, this region is as mysterious as its name and everything you’d expect.

Transylvania - Bran - Draculas Castle - 18

Transylvania - Sinaiia - 37

Transylvania - Sinaiia - 23

Transylvania - Sinaiia - 27

Not only does Transylvania really exist, so did Count Dracula! He lived in a massive mountain-top castle called Bran located at the narrowest point of the valley between what was once Hungary and present day Romania. Bran Castle was a fortress aimed at fending off attacks from those pesky Austral-Hungarians in the time of their empire. You’re probably wondering what kind of guy the Count Dracula was. Well, he loved organ music and enjoyed impaling prisoners on his front lawn. So while he committed murder we put him on cereal boxes and dress up in his liking on Halloween (which I somehow managed to spend in Transylvania with a Romanian girl dressed up as Tina Turner).

Transylvania - Brasov - 45

The other two coincidences of this trip include traveling north to south with the changing leaves (it has been brilliantly orange, red and yellow everywhere we’ve been) and trekking right below every migrating bird in Eastern Europe. From Helsinki through Transylvania, we’ve seen literally TENS OF THOUSANDS of birds flying in their ganders and flocks to warmer climates for the winter months. It seems we are, in fact, migrating to warmer climates with them and it is breathtaking on a nearly daily basis.

Transylvania - Cluj-Napoca - 11

Transylvania - 01

Beyond Dracula’s castle, Transylvania (isn’t it so cool to read it, say it and even see it written?) offers mind-boggling mountains, fortress after fortress carved into hills and lovely, kind and generous people. I can’t rave about this part of the world enough. It is absolutely like stepping into a storybook over and over again. Highlights include Bran, Rasnov, Brasnov, Sinaia, Sighisoara, Cluj-Napoca and Sibiu, though we’d have loved to have gotten to Timisoara as well.

A final shout-out to the lovely Lutheran woman (the entire region is Lutheran despite Romania’s dominant Russian Orthodox faith because the Saxons (Germans) invaded, conquered and controlled the region for hundreds of years) who reminded me just how young America is. As we stood in a church built in 976 and she pointed out the carved wooden alter that is nearly 1,000 years old I thought to myself, “man, America is a baby! Romania has been around FIVE TIMES LONGER than the United States. Quite some food for thought while you eat your Count Dracula cereal swimming in chilled milk.

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Kyle Taylor